Welcome to my arctic adventure recap. On a physical level this Arctic Adventure was a fail. On a mental level it was very challenging. On an adventurous level it was fun. On the migraine issue it was a success. Get yourself a drink and let’s start.
Friday – Arctic Adventure Arrival Day
Date: March 6 | Temperature: -6°C to 0°C
What happened: husband drove me to airport, arrived at 9.25am, went through security, got breakfast (Americano, water, sandwich), wore a mask, very nervous – bathroom 10 times, boarded plane, cried a little, arrived in Stockholm, ate my sandwich, met up with first part of group, happened to generate lead for husbands company, called my sister, purchased lounge ticket – a first, enjoyed buffet and silent area, flight to Kiruna, shared uber with guys, drop off at ICA (grocery store) for dinner, walk to hotel, feeling very happy, snow and cold air, called husband and had dinner (ill tasting wrap), did a foot mask, went to sleep
Distance: 2,295 km by plane
Altitude of hotel: 511 m ASL
Hours of sleep: 3:11 | woke up 4 times, total awake time during night 6 min
Saturday – Day 0 Base Camp
Date: March 7 | Temperature: -5°C to -3°C
What happened: pick up by our guide in Kiruna, meeting everyone – group of 7 with two ladies including me, grocery run, arrival in base camp, first breath of arctic air, lunch with pumpkin soup, fell from a sparkstötting – it hurt, received our blue IKEA bag aka everything we needed for trip, test run of equipment (ski, outerwear) and test building of tent, sauna time (didn’t go since I didn’t know if people went naked and I was scared to ask), sorting my things and packed my blue bag, slipped on ice patch – felt goofy, helped guide start fire in bbq hut, hot dog dinner in hut, sleep – badly, opened window at some point because too warm, missed polar lights.
Distance: 61 km by car | 2x 775 m on ski
Ascent: 36 m
Altitude of camp: 380 m ASL
Hours of sleep: 5:42 | woke up 11 times, total awake time during night 87 min
Sunday – Day 1 of Arctic Expedition
Date: March 8 | Temperature: -3°C to -1°C
What happened: woke up to clear blue sky, breakfast in community hall with eggs and bacon, coffee and tea, distribution of snacks – everyone could take as much as needed from stash mainly nuts, muesli and protein bars some chocolate and cookies, also choosing dinners of last two nights track and eat, packing last things, cleaning community area, washing dishes, loading pulkas, moving stuff that stayed in base camp to their cabin, filling up all thermos and water bottles, hop in car for drive to expedition starting point in Nikkiluokta, arrival at 2pm, last bathroom before the wild, start ascent, steeper than anticipated, after about 1.6km removed ski and continued on foot, needed many breaks, in the end – and being last – someone was sent back to help me pull pulka ending up taking it completely, arrival in camp exhausted at around 5.30pm (?), tent almost build up, fire didn’t really start, watching polar lights while waiting for dinner, calling husband, building sleep place and pumping up air mattress, finally dinner at 10.27pm, realizing I lost my sports bra – tried to dry on my body but it must gave fallen out, stressed me immensely, but getting into sleeping bag, couldn’t calm down, bad sleep, one bathroom break
Distance: 124 km by car | approx. 6.5 km by ski and foot
Ascent: 580 m
Elevation of camp: 945 m ASL
Hours of sleep: 5:03 | woke up 9 times, total awake time during night 192 min
Monday – Day 2 of Arctic Expedition
Date: March 9 | Temperature: -4°C to -1°C
What happened: Woke up after bad nights sleep, went to bathroom and searching for my bra, found my headband I hadn’t yet missed, walked up and down the hill, really stressed to not find it (expensive and had only one other for the trip), 9.45 am called husband, was missed and looked for, came down to camp while all my stuff moved outside as the took down tent, felt slightly guilty but call was more important, was told all my community stuff is being moved from my pulka – did not feel good, walked first 1.5km of todays route because of ascent, enjoyed ploughing through the snow, was in the lead at times, felt very good, until descent, first attempts went well, was proud, then new technique I tried to apply, fell first try, immediately was asked to hand over pulka, said I want to try again, did, fell badly – jaw was dislodged, after that no more pulka for me, felt really really crappy, slowly making it down hill, saw reindeer herd on summit pass,
arrived at camp by river not as last one, starting to build camp site (for two nights),
went for fire wood, created a “luxurious” latrine close by for the ladies (both on period), camp sat up by 4.30pm, sleeping areas set up by 5.12pm, dinner by 5.50pm – potatoes with bacon, storm warnings for the night, decided to build storm wall by 7pm, I cut firewood while guys build wall, 4 people in tent chilling, 8.12pm calling husband, getting ready for bed, writing my diary, bathroom break at 9.30pm and admiring polar lights, everyone already asleep besides guy who sleeps outside (throughout the trip), adding some more fire wood, very anxious, finally fell asleep at 11.26pm
Distance: approx. 8.21 km
Ascent: 233 m
Descent: 378 m
Altitude of camp: 800 ASL
Hours of sleep: 5:06 | woke up 8 times, total awake time during night 101 min
Tuesday – Day 3 of Arctic Expedition
Date: March 10 | Temperature: -5°C to -1.5°C
What happened: awake after an hour of sleep, while dozing off hit by the storm wall that was collapsing on me, ouch, only two people woke up from my yelp, guide went outside to remove snow and fix tent, turned around on my sleep place, not comfortable, high on adrenalin, went to bathroom since being up, standing by the river to calm down and watching the stars – peaceful, finally fell asleep again, awake by 6.20am, getting up by 7am, air the different layers of sleeping bag, make breakfast, wait for coffee, bathroom run, finally porridge breakfast at 9.10am at the little water hole listening to the river dance,
admiring landscape, admiring it some more, decided to not do a day trip in order to rest and have the other enjoy a quicker pace, three other guys stayed at camp, I decided around noon to go get some firewood for the evening BBQ, two guys build a huge BBQ lounge area, first went with my ski scouting some dead trees, seen landscape, lots of ptarmington track but not one spotted, then decided to go ahead and saw and hauled some firewood,
had fun doing it so I did a second haul, fell down in deep snow and it took me nearly 15 min to get back up, very exhausted, almost used emergency whistle, back in camp when half of day crew arrived, comment: are you getting some more firewood and sawing it in smaller pieced… no thank you, just commands. Sigh, said no, I was done with community stuff, someone made tomato soup, amazing, rested a bit, then we had dinner, felt a little lonely and fifth wheel, wasn’t able to sit in BBQ lounge because I was too heavy and broke it, went to bed earlier, was cold, lay awake later at night
Distance: 1km on ski
Ascent: none
Altitude of camp: 800 ASL
Hours of sleep: 4:39 | woke up 11 times, total awake time during night 128 min
Wednesday – Day 4 of Arctic Expedition
Date: March 11 | Temperature: -6.5°C to -0.5°C
What happened: woke up to sunshine after another fitful night, getting up and hanging my inlays to dry, packing up my sleeping area, waiting for water to boil to get breakfast, stressed because no water and I need to eat and drink, getting some lukewarm water to make porridge, breakfast at 8.50, tent down by nine, so again stressed because last things need to be put away, 9.02am I am told that I will not take my pulka today because we need to make some miles, saying that it stresses me out if I have nothing with me and being depended, also when everyone leaves the minute I get to break point, not a good feeling, at 10am departure, headed out first to make some head way before everyone caught up with me again, feeling pretty good and pissed at the same time, decided to just not care anymore (easier said then done) and if they want to carry my shit let them, me and my (almost empty) pulka headed out to have my peace, enjoyed the landscape and the skiing, felt good, was in front most of the time, break at skidoo road, guide had drone fly, skidoos came by, stupid talk annoyed me so I headed out again, weather very hot, walked on a river and was a bit scared because I didn’t know how thick the ice was, found skidoo tracks, also wolf and other tracks, was called back to the group at some point because skidoo drivers said there was wolf in region and we should stick together a bit more, more reindeers, kept going but suddenly was at the rear again, soon enough (around 1pm) someone took my pulka so we can be faster, was annoyed, also got my period, at 2.30 pm looking for a camp site, I stayed away from group and watched,
took them 30 minutes, no care, blisters on foot soles, arriving at campsite tasks where distributed, I was in tent building, about had it at 4.45 when being bossed around by different pople, went and just sat until someone told me what to do, 6.29pm called husband, complained and cried about not feeling part of group and having things decided without asking, waiting for dinner to be cooked, dinner done, everyone eating from pot, no room for me to sit, fighting for food because someone decided no plates just the pot, bathroom, and then to bed, worrying about husband, not feeling too good, still proud because I did a good pace today to keep up, heavy winds, luckily no more storm wall to fall on me, declared departure tomorrow 9.30 am
Distance: approx. 9.5 km
Descent: 76 m
Altitude of camp: 727 ASL
Hours of sleep: 5:55 | woke up 14 times, total awake time during night 123 min
Thursday – Day 5 of Arctic Expedition
Date: March 12 | Temperature: -8.5°C to -0.5°C
What happened: woke up at 6.42 am and waited a bit till the fire was burning, got up around 7 to get ready for departure, almost white-out, very gloomy, inlays airing, packing up stuff, grabbing breakfast, was told that guide will take my pulka – did not even care anymore, was stressed because instantly urged to be faster, very very low energy today (period, bad sleep, hard yesterday, blisters) and struggled,
another moose spotted, guide looked for lower pass over mountain range, found reindeer antlers, someone dug them up, plowing on, at times in front finding way – liked that reading topography, soon again last one, a little more energy, weather lifted to sunshine, soon enough arrived at small lake where a campsite was build, arrived at edge of woods at 1pm, hardest part was ahead of us, decent to lake in deepest snow, beautiful landscape
I wasn’t really being able to admire, moving on, falling down I deep snow, not able to get up, two people helped, lots of energy lost, shortly after falling again, pulling a muscle, crying, wanting to die, someone broke binding of ski, heading to get help while person started walking down in waist deep snow, finding sunglasses, guide informed about binding and he headed back, I continued down, handed over found glasses, a few meters later found a ski binding, met our spearheads who made the path, handed over binding, managed to find a skidoo trail that made last stretch easier, waited at meadow for everyone to arrive, starting to get cold, no clothes around as my pulka still up in the woods with guide, when he arrived he plowed on as we needed to reach lake, sigh, really struggled on last 1.5 km, nice person continued to stay with me and help me, had to walk over river ice with water patches, did not feel comfortable, finally arrived at Campsite 5.30 – tent not build yet (sigh), sat down a few minutes but didn’t want team to think I was lazy, started building up tent, digging ski, was very slow, everything hurt but pulled my part, finally 9 pm dinner – track and eat veggies risotto, was ok, bathroom and bed, heavy storm forecast for the night, also rain for Saturday, everyone a bit anxious, fell asleep before 11pm
Distance: approximately 11.5 km on ski
Ascent: 95m
Descent: 352 m
Altitude of camp: 470 m
Hours of sleep: 5:06 | woke up 11 times, total awake time during night 174 min
Friday – Day 6 of Arctic Expedition
Date: March 13 | Temperature: -7.5°C to -0.5°C
What happened: Woke up, stayed where I was, happy for rest day, slow morning, went back to bed at some point because I was chilly and there was nothing else to do, no way to sit anywhere, suddenly discussion if we need to break camp and get back to civilization today (14km) as heavy storms (winds of 85km head on) were forecasted for Saturday, team meeting was called, discussion started, someone asked if they should wake me, I announced I was awake, I said I will not be able to walk 14km in storm, I said it might be best to go and make as much miles as possible today, people started talking about restaurants and sleeping in a cabin this night, I said I will not be able to make 14km that day. I said it twice, no one listened, I yelled to be heard after awhile crying, it was not really acknowledged, solution was found to get across lake (6km) and have me be picked up there, felt ok for me, issue with who is driving car of insurance issues, total chaos, I asked nice person if she thinks I would make it the 14 km after she saw me yesterday, unsure, went to guide and said I would try the 14km but in my own pace and with as many breaks as it takes if that is ok with him, seemed happy, rushed me to get a head start, when putting on ski people asked if they can’t put me in a pulka, felt very bad, said that I would like skiing too just not in the pace and that I am not disabled and still hear everything, very annoyed and pissed, started moving at 12.37pm, feet hurt, everything hurt but gave it my best and was really in my best pace, had a plan to do a 5 min break every 40 min, knew this day would end in migraine but decided to take it on, at some point I was rear again with everyone ahead making gap bigger,
I kept going, was determined to make it and if it ended up in the dark, at some point guide waited for me, pushed me, urged me on, then after 90 min I needed a break, immediately he said he’s pulling me, did not feel good, 2.30 pm, I had calculated in my pace I would make it at around 5./5.30pm to the restaurant, I was ok with that, that was the deal, no? anyway he wanted to pull me in order to not get into the dark, after 30 min I was back on skiing myself, but only for 15 minutes, as I was too slow ( it was my fastest pace yet) and he started pulling me again, I cried all the way to the end, I didn’t want the trip to end with me being hauled like a cow, not able to say it, luckily for the last 500m I was on my ski again, very hard, very slow, the pulling cost me more energy and pain (I had a pulled hamstring), I was able to laugh though, I saw a moose, I made it to the restaurant crying with exhaustion, everyone already drinking beer,
I decided to treat me to some dinner – reindeer stew, had to leave group as loudness, civilization, exhaustion just was too much, dropped my glove into toilet – luckily after flushing but still… another crying fit, cabins were organized – additional budget I had not planned for, but no energy to say anything, dropped of ski at car, went to cabin, sent husband a photo (I looked awful), was asleep by 6.30pm, woke up somewhat around 9pm, made dinner for guide and me, went back to bed, happy this was over, took an ibuprofen just in case to battle lurking migraine and all my other aches. No energy to shower (wouldd hav been back at restaurant around 600m)
Distance: 14 km on ski
Altitude of cabin: 478
Hours of sleep: 5:53 | woke up 12 times, total awake time during night 90 min
Saturday – Rest Day in Base Camp
Date: March 14 | Temperature: -7°C to -1°C
What happened: woke up after longest night of sleep, beautiful sunset at 6.30am, packed my stuff, sorted, and cleaned cabin, left with my fully loaded pulka at 7.52am and arrived at car 7.58am, very proud, pulka was heavy (how did everyone else pull that all week?), headed for breakfast (another additional money spend but we all couldn’t see anymore muesli breakfast), sat a little off too the side, not on purpose, just happened, drank 6 cups of coffee, back to car, departure 9am, everyone was late, finally everyone arrived and everything was loaded, last group picture, departure 10am, first drop of one person to airport, than 2 hours of shopping time – didn’t want to do it, went to the book store, got a few postcards, walked around town, strolled through shops but was numb and overwhelmed, happy to get back to car finally, drive back to base camp, relaxe time, first shower in 6 days, started packing and sorting, wrote my three cards, went out to shoot a beautiful sunset over the lake,
went to lay down in bed, 7pm surprise in BBQ hut, a wonderful Samí/Swedish hero dinner, lovely conversations, lots of background info by owners of camping grounds, really enjoyed it, stayed the longest and watched the fire go out until it was too cold, back at house everyone already asleep in bed by midnight
Distance: 2 x 500 m on foot | 124 km by car
Altitude of base camp: 380 m ASL
Hours of sleep: 6:08 | woke up 6 times, total awake time during night 68 min
Sunday – Return Home
Date: March 15 | Temperature: -9°C to -2°C
What happened: After being awakened during the night managed to sleep till 8, headed for breakfast, afterwards bought some tea we had the night before and some more post cards, had a very nice and intimate talk with Carina, owner of camping grounds – felt good to confide in someone as I wasn’t able to in the group (multiple reasons), when coming back my stuff was partly backed and moved, again feeling rushed even though I was on time for departure at 11 am, packed my last things and sat in car by 11 am, headed to pick up first person from following group, we all had about 2,5 hours in town (again), first good byes for people leaving to the airport, tried to visit the famous church but second attempted failed as it was all construction sides, strolled around town hoping library was open but Sunday… Ended up in coffee shop writing my cards, sipping coffee eating blueberry pie, drop of at airport, more good byes, security check, an hour of waiting – reading a book that takes place in Kiruna, everyone sat separately, boarding plane, happy to fly home but with a heavy heart, thinking if this was tough, tougher things are heading my way, more crying, the four of us grabbed dinner in Stockholm together before boarding plane to Berlin saying we’ll see after landing, one person ignored me, the others were not getting off quickly so I decided to screw this and just head out and hug the husband. I’ve rarely been so happy to see him, he was also excited has his watch gave an alert because of elevated heart rate, in car I recapped all my frustration and sadness, the next evening it was a bit better and I could also talk about happy and great things.
Distance: 2,242 km by car and plane
Altitude of home: 50 m ASL
Hours of sleep: 5:10 | woke up 10 times, total awake time during night 119 min
Some stats
Animals seen: 4x moose, 2 x reindeer herds and a few more, ptarmigan (snow chickens), squirrel
Days of northern lights: two. First night amazing, very subtle second night
Days of freezing: zero, a bit of shivering but it could have been exhaustion
Days of crappy sleep: all of them
Days of migraine: none – two days could have been critical but I knew what to do
Times building up tent: 4
Times falling down: stopped counting but three were really hurtful and energy sucking to get back up in the deep snow, very bruised knees
Things lost: my bra, my wetwipes, and my pride
Things found: sunglasses, ski binding, trash
Things missed: chair with backrest, energy, sleep
Things eaten: so much muesli and nuts, hot dogs, pasta with tomato sauce, potatoes with bacon, tomato soup and later bbq chorizo & halloumi, rice with tuna, track and eat – mine vegetable risotto, reindeer stew with mashed potatoes and later fried sausage and Swedish bread, traditional Swedish/sami foods at the bbq hut, sandwiches
Things drunk: coffee, lots of tea and daily electrolytes, lingonberry juice, water
Things I hurt: a cut, pulled hamstring, few bruises
This is my Arctic Adventure in a nutshell. I have a few things I will get into a bit more deeply. Again drop questions if you have any.
What sounds crazy to you? What seems easy? Any day you would like to experience? Any day you would never want to have? Favorite image spotted?
10 comments
Oh, thank you for the honesty! I’ve never been on a big trip where I haven’t felt some of those feelings. Groups are hard, and in every group one person is the slowest. And that person is usually me. I’m so annoyed at people who think they own the world because they are not the slowest (or the weakest or whatever). We live in such an ableist world!
But good for you for hanging in there. Good for you for being able to write about it.
And, oh my, wouldn’t our lives be easier if we could actually sleep at night?
Feeling like a sister to you right now.
Ahhh thank you so so much.
The sleep was a big factor for sure. Much would have been better with sleep.
I was a bit naive a out the group I think. I am usually easy going and can get along with everyone if I need to but here I truly struggled – more a me problem though.
Oh, Tobia, this sounds rough. It would have upset me to have everyone pushing for speed when the whole idea was to enjoy the beauty of the Arctic. Falling several times sounds scary and dangerous. I wish it had been a better experience for you. But I don’t think you lost your pride. I think you should be SO proud of what you did! That was an amazing, brave thing to do! You went on the adventure of a lifetime. I hope that you can have many happy memories of the good things about the trip. My favorite photo is the one you said is your favorite – the view of the woods. The stark beauty is amazing. I love the reindeer one too. I have to admit that this kind of trip would not be for me. I am too addicted to comfort! I need a soft bed and warm running water. Nothing about it sounds easy to me. I think falling and hurting would be the worst part. I look forward to more details, Tobia. I appreciate your honesty about your experience!
Ahhh thank you so so much. I will get a bit more into the mental struggle and what was rough in an upcoming blogpost and then I will also add a few god moments because the longer it’s in the past the better I feel about the trip. I am a master in repression.
This trip would not be for everyone. My husband wouldn’t be er want to do anything like it. I was surprised how easy the outdoor living actually was. Besides the constantly being on the floor that got old fast.
Oof, Tobia, this sounds HARD. All of it. Being on your period, not sleeping well, the risk of migraine, not being able to quite keep up, the judgement, the frustration, the embarrassment. All of it. At the same time, you should be PROUD of what you accomplished and attempted, and that you finished. And your photos are stunning.
I remember years ago (2008) we went to Hawaii and we went on a kayak tour, and everyone else was so much better, and my family all sucked at it. We were left behind at every spot. We didn’t seem to be in any worse condition (just looking) than anyone else, but we could not keep up. It was so frustrating. So I have had a tiny taste of what you went through (mine was just a few hours, vs a week) and no, I did not like it one bit.
I’m so glad you persevered, you should be proud of yourself for that. Also ptarmigans are the state bird of Alaska, where I grew up! Great that you saw some (or at least their tracks). They’re good at camouflage, so can be hard to spot.
Oof yeah I can see how that can be an issue in kayaking. Right now I think I would have done better there – but then I also didn’t anticipate the Arctic week would go like that. No matter it’s not a good feeling being last.
I did not know ptarmigan was Alaskas stateside. They are indeed masters of camouflage. I ended up seeing some but not too close. I assume if I had more time to just sit in nature they would have shown themselves more.
All I could see was that you needed hours and hours more sleep. No wonder you were tired and falling and feeling like this wasn’t very fun. I think you should be proud of yourself for doing something that was such a stretch for you! You finished! Yay! (And now you never have to do that again.)
The sleep was so worse. Much more severe than at home. I am proud afterall but it was hard.
However I would do it all again – in a different group setting.
I really appreciate your honesty in talking about how this adventure went. It sounds really, really hard and that you just didn’t have the right group around you. But you still DID IT. You got through it and have so many gorgeous photos to show for it. And I’m sure you have so many lessons you’re still sorting through.
Oh was tough for sure I had just anticipated it would be more on a physical level and not mentally.
It will stay for me for sure. And looking through the photos it doesn’t feel as bad and I wonder why I was complaining.